Just shy of 6 a.m. on a November morning, the pre-dawn temperature hovers barely above freezing. The stars are achingly bright in the rich, black-velvet sky. A sliver of moon hangs over the spectacular buttes of Monument Valley on the Arizona-Utah border. As our jeeps caravan down the sandy road, a soft gold creeps along the horizon to the east. The "Mittens" rock formations become half-seen giants against the glow.

An hour later, after a jostling ride through sandy washes and rocky trails, we are parked near the "Totem Poles" with film loaded and cameras mounted on tripods. The sun crests the horizon too suddenly. The rock formations glow yellow and orange; the sand dunes become a rippling river of color, light and shadow. For what seems only seconds, we all concentrate on capturing the moment: shutters snap, film changes hands. The light changes as day announces itself. Time to pack up and head for another location.

Our Navajo guides on this trip are award-winning photographer LeRoy DeJolie and Leroy Teeasyatoh. Teeasyatoh has operated Sacred Monument Tours for 12 years. In the early days, he says, he operated with three horses and two "raggedy old" saddles (he rode bareback), waiting along the road for potential customers. He says that those three horses got him everything he has now: his home, corral, jeeps and more horses and saddles. Today, he operates a tour company in Monument Valley, offering tours for a few hours or overnight. "Just tell me what you need," Teeasyatoh says, "and I can arrange it."

LeRoy DeJolie discovered his passion for photography during high school in urban Los Angeles, but it wasn't until he was back living on the Navajo reservation that he began to shoot the stunning landscapes for which he is known today. "There's a big difference between having to work, rather than wanting to work," DeJolie notes. Keeping his livelihood-he earns his living as a steelworker-separate from his photography helps to keep it fresh.

His passion, both for photography and Dinetah (the Land of the Navajo), is what inspires him to share his knowledge with others. "He is very generous with his information and is able to take us in to hidden and unique sites, which makes his workshops an outstanding opportunity," notes a workshop participant Wendel Swanson.

DeJolie leads about a dozen expeditions per year into various parts of the Navajo Nation, both by himself and with Arizona Highways Magazine. This year's planned destinations include Kaibeto Plateau, the Colorado Plateau, Antelope Canyon, Monument Valley, Hunt's Mesa and Canyon de Chelly, among others. A special new adventure, "LeRoy's Secret Places," will take photo buffs to special locations that DeJolie has found and photographed over the years. In addition, he is putting together a photography clinic for Native Americans at Lake Powell in August.

When DeJolie talks about his land, his throat tightens with emotion. "As far as I'm concerned, Hunt's Mesa is the center of the earth. It's also the center of my heart."

Arizona
Canyon de Chelly National Monument-Sheer red cliffs and Anasazi ruins: White House, Antelope House, Standing Cow, Mummy Cave. Except for the 2.5-mile White House trail, hiking or driving within the canyon requires an authorized Navajo guide and Park Service permit. www.nps.gov/cach; 928/674-5500
Navajo National Monument-Two of the most-intact Anasazi cliff dwellings. Betatakin ruin is a 2.5-mile hike (seasonal; ranger-led only) from park headquarters or can be viewed from Betatakin Point. Keet Seel is an 8-mile hike or via horseback (permit required). www.nps.gov/nava; 928/672-2700

Colorado
Mesa Verde National Park-Anasazi cliff dwellings include Cliff Palace, Fire Temple, Balcony House, Spruce Tree House, Step House, Long House, New Fire House, and also many Pueblo and pit-house ruins. Most ruins are accessible through self- guided hikes and from the opposing canyon rims. A tour of either Cliff Palace or Balcony House and Long House must be ranger-guided. Walks to mesa-top ruins and canyon overlooks are mostly easy, but entering cliff dwellings can be fairly strenuous. www.nps.gov/meve; 970/529-4465.

New Mexico
Aztec Ruins National Monument-The Aztec ruin (an Anasazi site with nothing to do with the Aztec people of Mexico) consists of a 400-room, nine-kiva pueblo. A restored great kiva is accessible to the public. www.nps.gov/azru; 505/334-6174
Chaco Culture National Historical Park-Ruins of a major Anasazi trade and ceremonial center. A paved loop drive provides driving access to Chacoan sites in the heart of the canyon, including the three-story Pueblo Bonito. Most of these sites have easy, self-guided walking tours. Moderately strenuous backcountry hiking trails (permits required) lead to more remote sites, petroglyphs and mesa-tops with panoramic vistas. Ruins include Pueblo Bonito, Casa Rinconada, Chetro Ketl, Una Vida, Hungo Pavi, Kin Kletso, Casa Chaquita and Pueblo del Arroyo. www.nps.gov/chcu; 505/786-7014

Utah
Hovenweep National Monument-Paved roads lead from both Cortez, Colorado and Blanding, Utah. Six sets of Anasazi ruins: Square Tower Ruins and Cajon Ruins in Utah, and the Holly, Hackberry Canyon, Cutthroat Castle and Goodman Point ruins in Colorado. Square Tower Ruins are near the visitors center and require a 2-mile hike around the canyon rim. Dirt roads and some hiking are required to access the outlying ruins. www.nps.gov/hove; 970/562-4282

Details: LeRoy DeJolie leads photo workshops for the Friends of Arizona Highways (www.friendsofazhighways.com) as well as his own NavajoLand Images photography workshops (in formats ranging from 35mm to 8x10). Download his 2003 schedule at www.dejolie.com. He also sells limited-edition prints of his images through Target Media (480/513-8877). For details on Sacred Monument Tours: 435/727-3218 or smtours@citlink.net.

Hilary Wallace is art director of Native Peoples. She wrote about Guatemala and its rich Native weaving traditions in Nov/Dec 2001.