Dusty July days and hot August nights are spent creating sweet sweat as much of Indian country marks the summer by traveling the powwow trail, hop scotching across a region or the nation in search of the next, best powwow. For many Native Americans, the powwow trail is much more than just entertainment; it's a way to honor a spiritual connection to their ancestors.

The Poncas are credited with creating the first powwow type ceremony in the early 1800s, while the modern day powwow developed among the Plains tribes in the 1920s. The idea quickly spread and today members from almost every tribe coast to coast participate at some event or other. Over the years, powwow has evolved. "Contesting," or dancing competitively for prize money, is a new twist, as is the sheer number of events (now numbering over 300 held year-round), and the size and popularity of contests-some fill sports arenas! But the small, non-competitive and family-oriented events still remain popular as well.

Simply put, a powwow is a gathering of American Indians who come to dance, celebrate, pray, laugh and socialize. But for each person the meaning of the powwow, and their place in that ceremony, can only be defined by themselves.

For many powwow veterans, the thrill of entering a new powwow ground never abates. A lifetime of being the Master of Ceremonies at hundreds of powwows qualifies Sammy Tone-kei White, a Kiowa of Anadarko, Oklahoma, as an expert. "Since 1968 I've gone to at least two a week; that's a lot of powwows!" he says, "And now I MC about one a week, on an average. And, I still enjoy it!" For 21-years he's presided over what some consider the granddaddy of all powwows, the Gathering of Nations, held in Albuquerque, New Mexico each April.

Reno Charette of Montana, a Crow and descendant of the Turtle Mountain Chippewa, has been dancing from the age of nine. When she was in college she saved every single penny and didn't buy herself new clothes for two years, all so she could afford to give herself a matching set of beaded moccasins, purse, belt, scarf slide and bracelets. "I wore it all on graduation day," she proudly states.

Powwow Etiquette & Tips Do not talk while an elder is speaking on the address system. Dress properly-nothing too revealing for the ladies. Leave the chairs around the dance area alone. They are for the dancers--bring your own. Do not touch the dancers or their regalia. Ask before you take a photo—it's just polite and dancers may have religious reasons for avoiding photos. Never enter the dance arena for a photo. Listen to the MC. He will tell you when to take your hats and caps off during traditional dances. When a blanket dance is announced, be prepared to donate a few dollars when the blanket passes you. The money will be donated to the person or drum group being honored. Ask people around you to explain things you don't understand-most will be eager to share their knowledge with you.

The Music
To these hardcore powwow folks, the arena is a sacred but fun place, with its heartbeat residing in the music. "I like the songs, beautiful songs, that's the secret at a powwow," says White. "It's good medicine." The songs are divided into two main styles, northern and southern. Northern singers have a much higher pitch than the deep tones of the southern singers. Some songs have words while others are pure chanting. For example, an honor song might be composed for someone who has recently returned from war or the military, or for someone who recently passed away. Other songs provide ladies the chance to ask that special man to dance. Yes, at powwows, songs for sweethearts are strictly ladies choice! You'll know it's safe for anyone to join the dancing when the MC calls for an "inter-tribal dance."

There are some old favorites passed down from generations past but today more and more drum groups are being formed that are using their own languages to create new powwow songs. Take the 2004 Grammy Award winning group Black Eagle from Jemez Pueblo, New Mexico. When they started out in 1989 they imitated their favorite drum group Black Lodge. "We got so fascinated by that group," recalls Malcolm Yepa of Black Eagle. "We tried so hard to sing their songs right, to pronounce the words right!" But it was hard to sing in a different language. When the young members of Black Eagle met in person with members of Black Lodge, they were encouraged to write and sing in their own language. So Yepa went home and started composing in his Towa language.

Today his songs for the Men's Fancy Dance category include lyrics that talk about the dancers and how good they're dancing, how strong they look all decked out. Songs for the Women's Fancy Shawl speak of the same and encourage the young ladies to dance hard and fast. They even take a stab at love songs when the MC calls for a two-step or a Round Dance. Other recent Black Eagle songs include references to the 9/11 terrorist attacks and appeals to the Creator to keep our nation strong and safe and to help all people live a better life. Yepa says the Creator has given them the talent and blessing to compose songs and to share them with others, so in a way he looks at his songs as prayers for all people. "The songs are for us to live a better life."

One of the important roles of the MC is to let the crowd know what type of dance or competition is coming up next. They also call out to the drum group the category of the next song, though the groups must pick the specific song to perform, and also occasionally take public requests for songs.

Picking a favorite drum group is very personal and there are hundreds to choose from but White likes the Cozad Singers and the Young Bird Singers--both from Oklahoma and of the southern style-and Big Bear Thunder Child from Canada and Meskwaki from Iowa representing the northern style.

"Many of them (drum groups) have young people sitting around the drum which is exciting," says White. "It shows the culture is being passed down and the songs are being preserved. Without them you might as well stay home! Nothing will happen without the drum and the singers!"

The Dances
However, it is the dancers who bring life to the songs. At most powwows, the usual category of dances for men include northern traditional or southern straight, the grass dance, and the modern fancy dance. Northern traditional dancers often have lots of natural bird feathers in their outfits, and dance with quick steps, crouching low to the ground-resembling a prairie chicken's walk or a warrior in search of his enemy. Southern straight dancers have a regal air to them, standing upright, and dancing with short purposeful steps. At points in their song they will bend over and dance in semi-circles imitating how they surround their enemy.

For ladies there are the traditional buckskin or cloth dances, the jingle dress dance, and finally the ladies' fancy shawl dance, which is the equivalent to the men's fancy dance.

The modern fancy dance is the one that captivates most folks. The main difference between the traditional and the modern dances are the pace and the exuberant, flashy way the dancers-both men and women-spin their way around the arena.

"Back in the day when I was young, the elders in my family didn't want me to act like that, spinning and lifting my knee," says Charette. At age nine she started dancing women's traditional cloth. She was taught that a young lady should be graceful and dignified and very low-keyed when it came to dancing. But today she doesn't discourage her daughter from dancing fancy shawl. "It's definitely a young person's dance. At 47, I probably could do the dance steps for 30 seconds before my body started hurting."

Stopping on time is a key, and tricky, aspect of good dancing. Drum groups may make up songs with sudden endings designed to make the dancer misstep. If the dancers can keep up with the pace and not be fooled by a false ending they have a decent chance of winning the cash prize. "When a dancer oversteps, usually the judges won't vote on them at all," explains White. "A lot of times the dancer will just walk out of the arena." That's when White will tell the crowd to clap for the dancer for showing good sportsmanship.

Not all powwows charge admission or pay out large sums of prize money. "It's a good thing we can talk about powwows that don't have competition at all," says White. "These men and women come because they love to dance! They don't give a second thought to the fact that there's no money involved."

"I don't dance competitively," says Charette, "I dance for people who can't dance. On her belt she has a pocket where she carries the prayer cards she picks up from the funerals of family and friends. "When I dance, I dance to honor them," she says.

The one category that steals White's heart every single time is Tiny Tots. "It's the most wonderful thing in the world to have the tiny tots competition because it gets them out in the arena, and some can barely walk. I appreciate all the moms, dads and grandparents getting those little ones ready and for teaching them to dance. They're the champions of tomorrow!"

The Regalia
It's okay to admire a dancer's clothing but a travesty to call it a costume. "Costumes are worn during Halloween," says White. "It's not something we put on because we're gonna go out and trick or treat or dress up and play Indian." It's better to refer to the dance clothing as outfits or regalia.

Regalia is unique to each dancer and dance, and as powwow continues to evolve, there are no hard and fast rules regarding regalia. Years ago, one would not see the neon colors used today by some fancy dancers, nor design elements ranging from Mickey Mouse to the Nike swoosh symbol. But, there are some standards for various dances.

For instance, the regalia for grass dancer features yards and yards of yarn or ribbon hanging from the shoulders and waist. They symbolize the prairie grass the dancers historically would stomp down to prepare an area for dancing. Other outfits dazzle the eye with intricate beadwork, often containing personal motifs and designs that reflect their heritage. Most beadwork is created by a family member and given as a gift to the dancer, though today folks may also place "special orders" with beadworkers for their regalia. Women's jingle dance dresses are covered with rolled up tobacco tin lids that are attached to the dress. The bright silver shapes create a delightful tinkering sound as the dancers move.

Look closely at regalia and you'll also see use of porcupine quills and other traditional materials. Historically the decorative elements were applied over buckskin, but today the favored base material is cotton.

Dancers take great care to ensure their outfits are intact and "safe" during a powwow. If not, the dancer stands a chance of dropping a part of their regalia in the arena. The worse offense is when an eagle feather falls. It's important to pay respect to the eagle feather because for many tribes it represents a connection to the Creator. All dancing stops until the feather is properly retrieved.

White offers a tip for novice powwowers. "Sit down and stand up when everyone else sits and stands. Just follow the crowd. Be respectful and everything will be fine. We still have our ways, our beautiful songs. Be with us when we celebrate those things."

Patty Talahongva (Hopi) is the president of the Native American Journalists Association; the host of the radio program "Native American Calling" (see "Passages" this issue); sits on the board of Unity: Journalists of Color, Inc.; and is a frequent writer for this magazine and other major national print and electronic media. Louis Baca (Santa Clara Pueblo/Tewa) of Española, NM has been taking photographs personally and professionally for more than 30 years. He is the owner of Blue Cloud Photo-GFX and shows his work throughout the Southwest. Sylvia Montana (Apache/Kickapoo/Mexican) of Longbeach, CA has been attending powwow since her teens and photographing them for about 20 years.

Editor's Note: Lita Mathews was raised in northern New Mexico and has been following the powwow trail as a dancer since 1984. In the summer of 1993, Mathews kept a daily journal of her 20,000-mile, 10-week odyssey with her husband, Derek, and daughter, Melonie, as they participated in powwows from New Mexico and Colorado to Ontario, Canada. The following entries are excerpted, with minor editing, from her book based on that summer's travel, A Powwow Summer Across North America (Gathering of Nations Publishing, 2000; 192 pages with black-and-white-photos; $12.95; also available in audio CD format). It can be ordered online at www.gatheringofnations.com, by calling 505/836-2810, or by writing to 3301 Coors Road NW, R-300, Albuquerque, NM 87120. Lita and Derek also launched and run-with Melonie--the annual Gathering of Nations powwow in Albuquerque, where they reside.

Albuquerque, New Mexico
This time of year-late spring-is special as we pack our truck and head out; we plan to cover a lot of ground. For the next four days, we are headed north out of Albuquerque through Colorado, Wyoming, Montana and Idaho, and plan to end up in Yakima, Washington, to attend the Tiinowit Powwow. It is always difficult leaving home. I try to remember every little detail in preparation, as we will be away for three months. There is an art to packing, one that requires skill and patience. Our luggage for our dance regalia alone must resemble that of the Queen of England when she travels.

Near Yakima, Washington
It has been two days since I have written. I guess it took that long for me to digest the outcome of the Tiinowit Powwow-two goose eggs-our team lost. It is not a good feeling. Melonie and I danced hard all weekend. My body was sore from the pounding it took from the three days of dancing on the cement of the Yakima Sun Dome. The last session of the powwow on Sunday night was the real test, and I messed up. I had danced in place (stationary) when I should have gone around. I do not know what I was thinking. The master of ceremonies had given us the rundown on what style of dance was appropriate for each song, and I had failed to pay attention. I was so upset I wanted to hide. Overall the powwow was a letdown. That happens sometimes. We just have to regroup and prepare for the next contest.

Rousseau River, Manitoba
Derek and I have been watching a familiar scene; I call it a "powwow ritual." This ritual is the hair-washing that takes place under a spout of water. In rural communities like this one (Rousseau River Powwow, Manitoba, Canada), a water truck or water tank is set up. Everyone at a powwow uses the water in the tanks for everything from drinking to washing hair. Girls walk over to the tank with their shampoo bottles and towels, place their heads under the spout and wash their long, dark hair. Then the young ladies wrap towels circling their hair and walk away. All sorts of interesting characters-couples, singles, families, young and sometimes old-stand in line waiting their turn at the water. Yesterday, the tank was first attacked by a group of five or six kids who wanted to get wet any way they could. They started by turning the valve to get a drink. Seconds later, one boy climbed onto the top of the tank and tried to get in. The boys moved away, only to be followed by an older woman carrying a large water jug. The woman turned up selling hot coffee later that night! I am glad we did not forget to buy bottled water.

Hinkley, Minnesota
By the time we left the powwow campground last night it was after 1 a.m., and by 6:30 a.m. I was experiencing what Melonie calls a "powwow hangover." The Hinkley powwow is different from the others we have participated in over the past few weeks. Melonie labeled it a "money dog" powwow that attracts certain types of dancers, or "powwow dogs." That does not sound very nice, but a "powwow dog" is a professional dancer or person who considers himself or herself to be a serious competitor. (For them) competition is the name of the game, and the stress factor builds at every session. Everyone likes to win, or to be paid. All 325 dancers here at Hinkley want to do exactly that-win.

Namirind Powwow, London, Ontario
Powwows in Ontario are visibly different from most in the West. The arbor, for instance, is located in the center of the arena. All of the drum groups are set in the middle and not along the outer circle. The announcer is also in the center arbor, but from what I can see, he has no place to sit down. At this powwow, there is also a sacred fire that burns throughout the entire weekend. The fire is ignited before the people arrive and burns day and night until everyone has left. The fire is supposed to keep bad and evil away. This past week, I felt the need to smoke my outfits in order to rid myself of the bad feelings and vibrations from last weekend at Hinkley, so I made a special point to walk past the fire.

The visitors, Native and non-Native, were an interesting bunch. I have never understood why, for them, "going Native" means taking off some of their clothes and being barefoot. There was a young couple dancing around during the intertribal songs; both were barefoot and wearing only swimming attire. All sorts of people exposed their big bellies this weekend-men and women uncovered those big, beastly bellies. They rubbed them, sunned them and aired them. Fat bellies were everywhere.

The first contest session for adults was held Saturday evening. It was blazing hot! The temperature was in the upper 90s and the humidity had to be over 100 percent. Dancing under such conditions can be miserable. I was reminded of an experience in Window Rock, Arizona. One year a traditional dancer from Warm Springs, Oregon, died at the powwow from a heart attack induced by the heat. And on another occasion, while we were dancing at Six Nations, a powwow near Toronto, dancers were passing out from heat exhaustion.

Walpole Island, Ontario
We arrived at Walpole Island, Ontario, in the mid-afternoon. The drive from Niagara Falls was uneventful. Derek took his time driving, as he was a little weary. I know Melonie and I were. We have spent the last six days camping out, and although we love our truck, it was really good to know that soon we would stretch out at the Chimney Motel. Camping has been hard on the body but good for the soul. We have learned to appreciate a clean room and a comfortable bed. The room offered us some space, but more importantly, a sanctuary from the mosquitoes. They had swarmed around us so badly we almost inhaled them. As soon as we checked in, we took everything out of the truck and sprayed the various compartments. All three of us were bitten so badly on our arms, legs, hands, feet and faces that we looked as if we had a case of the chicken pox.

I am tired and I've noticed we are eating more and more junk food. Whenever we stop for gas we stock up on candy bars, chips and pop. I believe we have eaten at about every McDonald's between Walpole Island and home, and I am sick of fast food.

Six Nations Reserve,
Oshweken, Ontario
Sunday was a crazy day. It started out with the sun shining and ended with a pouring rain. The night ended with everyone just trying to stay out of the rain, which had turned everything uncomfortably soggy. For me, things took a turn for the worse. In all of my stress and the utter chaos, I broke my eyeglasses while climbing into the back of our truck to change out of my dance outfit. I went to sleep soon after that, saying to myself, "Just one more day."

By the time the Ladies Traditional came up, I was a little nervous. Derek calmed me down before I walked over to my starting position. I tried to focus on the drum beat. The host drum, led by Kenny Scabbyrobe of the Black Lodge Singers, gave us our first song, a round dance. I immediately relaxed and enjoyed the special song, and I danced well. My second song was a traditional. I danced my stationary style. When the song started, I looked over to one of my competitors. Her dancing style has a double bounce. I started on her beat and immediately knew that I had made a terrible mistake. Her rhythm threw me off my beat and I could not recover. My only consolation was knowing that my round dance had been the best one I had danced all summer.

Tulsa, Oklahoma
The session Sunday turned out to be even longer than Saturday. The announcer continued to drag through countless activities until way past midnight. After a few handshakes, we left the Tulsa Expo Center and headed back to the motel for a few hours of sleep. Even though it was 2 a.m. when our lights turned off, we wasted no time the next morning getting up and on the road. We were on our way HOME!

Powwow the Night (and Day!) Away

by Debra Utacia Krol Salinan/Esselen

Once a tradition reserved to the Plains tribes, powwows have grown into a pan-Indian celebration. Resplendent in richly crafted regalia, powwow-ers old and young stomp, twirl and leap to the thrumming beat of the drum. Although Plains dances like the fancy, grass and shawl dance predominate, some regional powwows also feature local social dance and song. And some of the best powwows aren't necessarily the biggest.

Here's our guide to 16 of the best powwows on the continent. "Traditional" refers to a powwow that does not award prize money; "competitive" describes those offering cash prizes.

Circle of Nations Powwow
July 9­11, Flushing Meadow Park, Queens, NY; 718/292-1519
This intriguing little powwow is held in a most unlikely location: Queens, New York. Here, a small but thriving Native community has come together annually for the past eight years to dance, sing and commune. The powwow features 25 to 30 dancers and a parade on Madison Avenue. "Hundreds of people come out," says organizer Crazy Fox, a Cherokee. Traditional.

Julyamsh
July 23­25, Post Falls, ID; 800/523-2464, ext. 7281, or www.cdacasino.com
See "Happening"

Listuguj
July 31­Aug. 1, Moffat's Landing, Listuguj, Quebec, Canada; 418/788-3278 or www.listuguj.com
This once-intimate affair has grown over 12 years into a huge celebration of Mig'maq traditions. Drum groups, dancers and families travel to this small, isolated and beautiful reserve in Quebec for two days of dancing, sweat ceremonies, mosquito swatting, healing and feasting on moose, salmon, crab and lobster. "We've created something bigger than ourselves," says organizer Lita Isaac. Traditional.

Gallup Inter-Tribal Indian Ceremonial
Aug. 4­8, Gallup, NM; 888/685-2564 or www.gallupnm.org/ceremonial
In addition to ceremonial dances, rodeos, parades and a world-class art show, Gallup also hosts a contest powwow. Tribes from across the Southwest converge on Red Rock State Park for a panoply of regalia and skill. And bring your appetite-the Southwest's best frybread, horno bread and green chile chefs are here. Competitive.

Omak Stampede Indian Encampment
Aug. 13­15, Omak, WA; 509/634-4541 or www.omakstampede.org
In addition to one of the planet's most heart-stopping horse races, the Omak Suicide Race, the Omak community also holds a great powwow. With three days of camping, dance, song and intertribal camaraderie, the powwow is one of the West's best. Competitive.

87th Crow Fair
Aug. 18­23, Crow Agency (60 miles south of Billings off I-90), MT; 406/638-4000
Rightfully billed as the "teepee capital of the world," the Crow Fair features thrilling powwow action as well as a rodeo, Indian market, parades and fabulous food. The parade alone is worth the trip; all the powwow and rodeo competitors, along with community members, form a line more than a mile long along the route. Competitive.

Wacipi
Aug. 20-22, Prior Lake, MN; 952/445-8900 or www.shakopeedakota.org
This is a major annual powwow sponsored by the Shakopee Mdewakanton Sioux Community, with some $130,000 provided in prize monies, as well as large fireworks display on Saturday night and a Sunday basketball tournament. Competitive.

Schemitzun Powwow and Green Corn Festival
Aug. 26­29, Mashantucket, CT; 800/224-CORN or www.schemitzun.com
Schemitzun is the home of the East Coast's largest powwow, with more than 2,500 contestants from across the continent going for the green of hard cash prizes. Hand drum, song, "49" songs and both northern and southern drum contests keep powwow-ers coming back for more. But there's more to this four-day event, now marking its 13th anniversary: Schemitzun also showcases the rich Native cultures and peoples of New England with its Green Corn Festival. Competitive.

Sycuan Powwow
Sept. 10-12, San Diego, CA; 619/445-7776 or www.sycuan.com
One of the West Coast's largest powwows, Sycuan spotlights the hottest powwow dancers and drums while retaining its Southern California tribal sensibility. Friday night features bird singing by local communities, and peon games are held on Friday and Saturday night-often lasting all night. Competitive.

All-Children's Powwow
Oct. 9, Wheelwright Museum, Santa Fe, NM; 505/982-4636, 800/607-4636 or www.wheelwright.org
The nation's only major all-kids powwow, now entering its 14th year, the All-Children's Powwow is a one-day celebration of Native culture in the heart of New Mexico's Pueblo Country. Students from the nearby Institute of American Indian Arts judge dancers in three categories. Arts and crafts vendors display their wares, and the local wildlife center brings birds, including a golden eagle. Competitive.

Native American Indian Association Intertribal Powwow and Fall Festival
Oct. 17­19, Four Corners Marina/Park Recreation Area, Nashville, TN; 615/232-9179
One of the largest powwows in the Southeast and now approaching its 22nd anniversary, the NAIA Powwow draws more than 15,000 people from the state of Tennessee and the South to Nashville for a three-day celebration of Native cultures, including dance, song, arts and crafts, and food. And this year's host northern drum is no less than the Grammy-winning Black Lodge Singers. Competitive.

Denver March Powwow
March 2005, Denver Coliseum, Denver, CO; 303/934-8045 or www.denvermarchpowwow.org
The Denver powwow is possibly the largest in the Rocky Mountains. More than 1,500 dancers, 60 to 70 drum groups and 150 vendors flock from across the nation to Denver to gather before an estimated crowd of 55,000 to dance, sing and share their rich traditions. Competitive.

Gathering of Nations
April 2005, Albuquerque, NM; 505/836-2810 or www.gatheringofnations.com
GON is commonly recognized as the nation's premier powwow. Practically the entire city of Albuquerque rocks with the beat of powwow drums, and the crowd is frequently standing room only, so get your seat early for great powwow action. And don't miss the Miss Indian World pageant. Competitive.

Stanford University Powwow
May 7­8, 2005, Stanford University, Menlo Park, CA; 650/723-4078 or http://powwow.stanford.edu
Powwow with the Cardinals in this Bay Area event! Student-organized and -run, this powwow began as a way for students far from home to share their culture with the university and surrounding community, and has since become a Stanford tradition on Mother's Day Weekend. Traditional.

Bkejwanong Community Cultural Celebration
May 28­29, 2005, Walpole Island, southern Ontario, Canada; 519/332-6164
Hosted by the Three Fires Confederacy of Ojibwe, Potawatomi and Odawa, this special gathering-nearing its 13th annual incarnation-features exhibition dancing and singing, art vendors and honoring ceremonies in one of the continent's most scenic settings. Traditional.

Red Earth
June 2005, Oklahoma State Fair Park, Oklahoma City, OK; 405/427-5228 or www.redearth.org
Hailed as one of the top 100 things to do in the United States, Red Earth features a powwow with nearly $80,000 in prizes, a cultural festival with some of the continent's best Native art competing for prizes, and some of the friendliest people around. Competitive.

Debra Utacia Krol is Native Peoples' book department editor and a contributor to this and other publications, such as American Indian Report, America West and Arizona Highways magazines.