Breakfast in Montréal’s “Chez Alanis”
By Beverly Cox and Martin Jacobs
Alanis Obomsawin (Abenaki) is internationally acclaimed as a
documentary filmmaker, singer-songwriter, storyteller, social activist,
educator and printmaker. What is less well known is that she also is a
terrific cook! I first met Alanis, whose family name Obomsawin means
“pathfinder” in the Abenaki tongue, at a screening of First Nations
films last June, during Montréal’s First Peoples’ Festival. She is a
woman of great presence and charm, with the kind of inner beauty and
charisma that will never fade.
When Alanis learned that I am interested in food, she invited me and
about a dozen other new and old friends for an impromptu breakfast at
her house. Though her father was a hunting guide and often brought home
game for the table, even as a toddler Alanis flatly refused to eat
meat. She is a creative and inspired vegetarian cook, and—as I learned
by talking with her Montréal-based guests, such as her longtime friend,
costume designer Annie Alexander—dining “Chez Alanis” is a coveted
invitation.
Her three-story town house on a quiet street in Old Montréal is filled
with her own prints and engravings, an eclectic collection of works by
other artists, and wonderful examples of antique Québec-style painted
country furniture. As our lively group assembled at the long kitchen
table, our hostess stood at the stove turning out delicate,
golden-brown crêpes. Filled with a purée of fragrant, sweet-tart summer
berries, dusted lightly with powdered sugar and garnished with a
sprinkling of whole berries, the crêpes are elegant in their purity of
taste and simplicity.
Breakfast began with an appetizer of muesli, fresh fruits and berries
mixed with toasted nuts, rolled oats and honeyed yogurt. Next came the
crêpes, warm from the oven, served with cups of strong, hot coffee. For
the carnivores present, there was even a platter of crisp bacon. The
conversation bounced interchangeably between French and English, and
discussions ran the gamut from art, film and philosophy to politics and
travel. Alanis travels a great deal; recently she has been honored at
the 2007 Santa Fe Film Festival, where she received a Luminaria Award
for Lifetime Achievement, and has taught an Academy for Creative Media
Master Class at the University of Hawaii. A prestigious retrospective
of her films—she has 35 to her credit—is scheduled to begin on May 14
at the Museum of Modern Art in New York (see page 18), and she is
looking forward to the trip.
It was a wonderful morning—stimulating, relaxed and jovial. The mood
set by our hostess, combined with her great cooking, explains why so
many people, including me, are drawn to the table of his remarkable
woman.
Crêpes with Fresh Berry Purée
Makes about 14 to 16 (6 to 8 servings)
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 3/4 cups milk
1/4 cup club soda
1 egg and 1 yolk
1/8 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon melted butter
2 to 3 tablespoons melted butter or vegetable oil to brush crêpe pan
For the berry purée:
1 quart fresh or frozen raspberries or strawberries
Honey or sugar to taste
For garnish:
Powdered sugar
1 cup fresh whole raspberries, blackberries or blueberries, or whole or sliced strawberries
Sprigs of fresh mint
Either whirl all of the ingredients for about 1 minute, at top speed,
in a blender, or place the flour in a mixing bowl and gradually whisk
in the milk, club soda, eggs, salt and melted butter. Allow the batter
to rest in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour.
Place a 6- to 8-inch nonstick or well-seasoned iron crêpe pan over
medium heat. Brush bottom and sides lightly melted butter or oil. Tilt
the hot pan toward you. Ladle a scant 1/4 cup of batter into the front
of pan, then slowly tilt pan backward to evenly coat the bottom with
batter. When tiny bubbles appear on the top, flip or turn the crêpe
with a spatula and cook for 20 to 30 seconds on the other side. If the
first crêpe seems too thick, beat an extra 1 to 2 tablespoons of club
soda into the batter to thin it.
If making in them in advance, stack the crêpes between layers of waxed
paper or foil so they won’t stick together. They may be made in advance
and refrigerated or frozen.
To prepare the berry purée:
Place berries and honey in a blender and pulse on and off until puréed.
If desired, press the berry mixture through a coarse strainer into a
bowl and discard the seeds. Makes about 2 cups.
To assemble the crêpes:
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Place a crêpe with spotty side up on
work surface. Spread a scant tablespoon of berry mixture over crêpe,
leaving a 1-inch border uncovered. Fold crêpe in half, and then in half
again to form a wedge shape. Arrange filled crêpes in a shallow,
buttered baking dish and cover loosely with aluminum foil. Place the
dish in a preheated oven for 15 to 20 minutes, until hot. Sprinkle
lightly with powdered sugar. Serve 2 to 3 crepes per person, and
garnish with whole or sliced berries and sprigs of fresh mint.
Alanis’ Favorite Muesli: Oats with Yogurt, Fruit, Nuts and Honey
Serves 6 to 8
1 quart plain yogurt
1 1/2 to 2 cups quick-cooking oatmeal (also called rolled oats)
1 orange, peeled and diced
1 cup diced fresh pineapple
1 apple, cored and diced
1 cup fresh strawberries, sliced
1 cup fresh blueberries
1 ripe but firm banana, peeled and diced
Honey or maple syrup to taste, optional
1/2 cup lightly toasted chopped pecans, hazelnuts or walnuts
In a large mixing bowl, combine yogurt and oats. Cover and allow to
soak overnight in the refrigerator. Fold in the orange, pineapple,
apple, berries and banana. Drizzle with honey or maple syrup to taste.
To blend flavors, return the muesli to the refrigerator for 1 to 2
hours until ready to serve. Serve sprinkled with nuts.
